Neville's
Food & Wine

Neville Sparks, proprietor of Midhurst, West Sussex based wine merchants, Wine Etcetera, (01730 813300) writes about good food and wine, his personal choices and journies to his favourite wine growing areas. info@wine-etcetera.co.uk


Corked or nor corked? That is the question.
I was recently asked about the quality of a wine and whether it might be out of condition or not. There maybe many reasons why you may think that a wine is faulty but one should always remember that one of the answers could simply be that you do not like it. Whilst it can always be argued that some wines are better than others, this is still a subjective issue and your own views still count towards an appraisal.

There are 3 common types of fault in a wine.

1) Corked:
This is a chemical reaction between the wine and the cork. This happens at the time of bottling and currently accounts for about 1:20 bottles in production produced under natural cork. It is due to the forced growing of cork by the producers or by using inferior cork. This is one of the reasons for the growth of synthetic corks or screw caps “ stelvin” caps as it is known in the trade. They provide a sterile closure that will ensure that the wine reaches the consumer in its freshest condition. Through contrary to popular belief this form of closure is more expensive.

The symptom most commonly found when wine is affected is a musty or slight mushroom smell. You cannot always smell it in a wine but the palate will taste unclean, musty and very unpleasant.

2) Maderized:
Often confused with wine that is oxidized though the symptoms are very different. This generally occurs when the wine has been badly stored or has been subjected to being lightly heated or “cooked” over a period of time. This will make the nose of the wine dull. The flavours of the palate will be flat, dull and not vibrant, leaving the wine to be almost flabby.

This is happening with increasing monotony as we experience ever increasing temperatures in the UK. For if a wine is badly stored in a warehouse that is not temperature controlled or left in a container on the dockside, it will cook.

I once had the experience of dining at a very expensive Hotel and finding a fine wine in this condition. After declining my third bottle and selecting an alternative the sommelier told me later, that in fact the case of wine had been moved from the cellar and left by a radiator by mistake!

3) Oxidized:
I suppose not strictly a fault. This is when a wine has matured faster that anticipated and takes on a sherry like aroma. This can also be present on the palate. It can happen when the grapes are being pressed or crushed, though this is rare nowadays with the advent of proper management of the juice. If controlled it can add a buttery or biscuit character to the wine naturally, as it ages, as in 10 year old chardonnay etc.

However if the wine is only a couple of years old and smells like your aunties amontillado sherry there is a very good chance that something is amiss.

I hope that you have found this useful and that if you are not sure about a wine you have purchased then save it and return it to the seller. Most wine merchants will be happy to examine the wine you return and in most cases if faulty replace it with one that is in good condition.

 

Recipes, Good Oil as a dietary supplement & Cocktail Tips coming shortly.



 
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